Hi,
I tune all my guitars down 2 semitones to "D". Standard Tuning, but a full step low. The guitar is my Collings D2H.

I am doing an experiment with Heavy Gauge Strings. They are .014"-.058" strings. The brand is Curt Mangan Fusion Matched PB's. All the strings, except the big E, fit in the Slotted Bridge just fine, and the bridge Pins seat out correctly. But on the Big E, it does not go into the slot all the way, and the bridge pin does not seat all the way. Sticks up about 5/16". I have looked inside with a flashlight and a mirror, and it seems to be acceptable against the bridge plate.

Here are my questions:

1- By jamming a bigger string partially into the slot, am I distorting the slot enough to make a detrimental effect when I put the .056" or .054" back in? i.e., will it be to loose or cause any problems when and if I want to go back to lights or meds?

So far the experiment is working great for the sound that I want, and the "Stoutness" in sound I was looking for. It really sounds pretty dang good so far. (Initial results only)

2-So if I decide to stay with the Heavy gauge strings, should I enlarge the slot in the Bridge, or should I make a special bridge pin that would seat correctly, and hold the string in place correctly?

3- If I enlarge the slot on the bridge, could I still go back to mediums or lights with no adverse affect?

4-Is the String Tension about the same with the Heavies tuned down to D, as the Mediums tuned to standard 440 pitch?

Relief looks good (tight business card), and action seems great.

Any and all info would be appreciated. Anyone else tried this on their Guitar? What did you do?

Thanks for your Help,
Michael

This message has been edited. Last edited by: dadthrash,

A bridge pin that is set above the bridge should not be a problem. I'd leave it like that; unless, I were going to keep the guitar and had made the commitment to use heavy gauge forever. However, the bridge pin has to be long enough that it will stick passed the bridge plate (within the guitar), as well as the string’s ball end, at least 1/8", preferably more. It's the pressure against the pin that's applied by the little cylinder of the string end--when the strings are up to tune-- that keeps the pin in place (pushing against the side of the pin hole) and prevents the ball from popping-out.

Maximum contact of the pin against the side of the pin hole, the ball-end against the pin and the bottom of the bridge plate, and string against the pin hole slot are important principles of transferring the vibration of the string to the bridge and then to the top. If you were to enlarge the slot, then use lighter strings later, the smaller diameter strings, and the contact between the string and the bridge slot would be diminished.

Whether you could hear the difference, is another story. But those are the dynamics, as I understand them.

I don’t know about the tension of strings dropped to that tuning, but whenever you go to heavies, make sure that the manufacturer of the guitar approves it. If the bridge’s is too narrow (like you’d find on small body guitars), then the surface area glued to the guitar’s top may not be sufficiently large to withstand the force that’s applied by the heavier strings.

tonosity,

Thanks for all the Info. The guitar is a Collings Dreadnought, D2H. I re-seated the pin this morning, and now it only sticks up about 1/8", with approx 1/4" to 3/8" protruding past the bridgeplate. I think the .058" string may have slid into the slot a little better today. I can see just a sliver of space around the pin where it passes thru the bridge plate. 97% as good a fit as the others.

I think I will take your advice and just leave it like it is for now. It will definitely take some time for me to decide if the heavies are going to "the ones".

Many Thanks,
Michael

PS....Any one have any thoughts about the String Tension?

Topic veer: where do you get Curt Mangan strings? I remember some name like Bluesboy, but that's not it, and they never gave me a price. The local place has never heard of 'em. I played one set provided by the grace and generosity of a forum member, and they're the only one's I've liked as well as Pearse. but it was one set. I'd try a box if I could find 'em. thanks tom

sonoman,
I usually buy them in bulk (12 sets) from Collings Dealer in Lufkin, Texas....Danny Brevard at Acoustic Pro Musician. I buy from him because Curt Mangan makes special sets for him, made up of what you and I call "True Mediums", and he lists them as "Alternate Tuning" Sets. I usually use the Alternate Tuning Strings which are 13, 17, 24, 32, 44, 56. Call and talk to Danny, he may send you an assorted "Lot" so you could try the different gauges and set make-up. His prices are GOOD for Curt Mangan Strings.

For the Heavies, and individual Curt Mangan Strings, I go to their website, which has an online store, and USPS Priority shipping, so I do not have to be home to receive them. When I am buying from their website, value and pricing is not a concern to me. I am usually trying something new, and only want 1 or 2 sets, and/or individual strings. Price is acceptable at their online store for experimenting, but I buy from Danny, in bulk once I decide.

Danny may have the heavies, I have never asked him. But he has all the others, plus the only Curt Mangan "True Mediums", or "Alternate Tuning" strings I know of.

Hope This Helps,
Michael

To buy from the Curt Mangan website....click on how to buy....then select online store....MRT

There is also a dealer locator you could try....Good Luck....I AM LOVING CURT MANGAN STRINGS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

sonoman:How to Buy Curt Mangan Strings

dadtrash: You're welcome, but I'm not a guitar tech--just a qualifier. If you go to StewMac.com, they have a good DVD on acoustic guitar repair that's highly regarded. His name slips my mind, but he goes into the proper way to position the ball-end of the string in the bridge pin hole, as well as how to harden the holes with different viscosities of superglue. I think it’s #1 of the two DVDs he’s published. Very interesting…if you get off on such things…

sonoman,
I just checked my Curt Mangan stash, and I've only got a couple sets of each left. If I wasn't in my "Experimental Stage", I would send you a couple of sets....Sorry, Bud....MRT

tonosity,
Thanks for more info....I will definitely check it out! And YES, I do get off on such things....HA! MRT

My guess is that because you tune down, it offsets the tension of a heavier gauge string back to a normal medium type tension. Well, that's what I would think anyway.
Tonosity's advice on the bridge pins is on target, I would'nt worry about it, you're on the right track.
I don't think it would hurt to contact Collings and ask them for their opinnion.

Papi,
Thanks for your input and advice.

I also got great calcs from Sugarlander here on the Forum.

Also, My Brother ( we're related...remember!), it's nice to hear from you. You've been kind of quiet lately.....figured I would see alot more posts from you on all the Great Collings topics going on!

Best To You,
Michael

Dadthrash. Tuning down a note is not a big deal. Larry Sparks sings a lot in F and uses heavies on his early '50s D28 I love that sound and have done that at times on my D1A and CW braz.

Thanks Doc....MRT