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Any of you out there have any thoughts on fossil ivory end and strap pins? I've decided to hold off on replacing my stock saddle and string pins on my OM2H, but I cannot face putting on a metal strap pin. I'm just concerned as to if the fossil ivory is strong enough to support the weight. I usually play seated, but like to play with a strap. I'd be thankful for any thoughts.
 
Posts: 13 | Location: Walpole, Ma. USA | Registered: February 28, 2003Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
Ed
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Wine Guy,

I also installed Fossil Ivory strap buttons and End pins. They look good and they seems pretty strong to me. I almost only play standing and never have a problem with them.

I recommend you drop Karen an email at Vintage Venture.
 
Posts: 1873 | Location: Hong Kong | Registered: May 06, 2002Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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I love my Collings, and all my guitars, and I want to keep them nice, but I also bought them to play them. I use a strap always. I had a hole drilled and a gold strap button on my OM3C before I got it out of the store on the first day. From a functionality point of view nothing is better than a metal strap button, and for me, on the treble side of the neck heel. I think the fossil stuff is probably OK, although I have heard about some light chalky stuff. I guess I might worry a little that it could crack and drop my guitar.
 
Posts: 1204 | Location: Colorado | Registered: May 08, 2002Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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My $.02:

I didn't have any hesitation in having a metal strap pin installed, as per instructions on the Collings web site. I have a D-3, so got the gold strap pin to match the other "3" model hardware: it didn't harm the guitar and it looks just fine, like an intended part of the instrument.

The D-1 I purchased from a previous owner, and he had installed a fossil ivory button. I do like the look of it, too, and it seems quite solid and secure.
 
Posts: 853 | Location: North Wilkesboro, NC | Registered: December 10, 2002Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Stew Mac has ebony strap pins with MOP inlay that match very nicley all of the other pins already on my guitar. Drilling that hole took some courage, since I'm little more than a garage handyman, but I'm glad to have it, and it is very unobtrusive.
 
Posts: 406 | Location: San Antonio, TX, USA | Registered: May 11, 2002Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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I had a gold strap peg put on my OM-2H, but couldn't tolerate the look.

I replaced it with a nice fossil ivory peg and think it looks much better, although if I had it to do again I would probably skip the peg and wrap around the headstock.
 
Posts: 23 | Location: New York City | Registered: August 11, 2004Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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someone told me that to replace an end pin in a collings, I would have to get it drilled out and reamed etc... scared me... but i would like an FWI pin to match the waverlies and strap button on the ol' D1A .... anyone done this ?
 
Posts: 40 | Location: Colorado | Registered: March 21, 2005Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Hello boys and girls,
In reference to the ivory strap button..usually most bigger companies like Martin use plastic at the tailblock. I use ivory often and it is obviously much harder than plastic and at least as stable and definately stronger than ebony. I've never seen it shatter, even with hair line cracks which is common.I wouldn't hesitate to use it; also, keep in mind that it is attached with a wood screw which is really the true anchor and installed properly will never go anywhere. As far as drilling the end pin..If you're handy.. remove the pearl dot using an exacto blade or small needle. Take a small drill bit (about the size of the pearl dot or slighly larger)drill through, holding the drill level than go to a slighly larger bit. (sometimes the heat from the drill bit may loosen the glue and it will just come out)if not keep going up in size until you can fit a tapered reemer ( puchased at your local hardware store) in the hole and slowly start reeming. There are plenty of different methods to remove the end pin, while this is the more time consuming way it is sort of fool proof. Go slow and there should be no problems Sounds more difficult than it is.
 
Posts: 37 | Registered: June 26, 2005Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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