Outside of ordering different tonewoods what can be done to 'upgrade' the sound or playability of our guitars? I've heard about changing the nut or saddle, I've had suggestions for different types of picks, I've heard a lot of things, but what really makes a difference?

Also, I may be in a position to trade a standard D2H for one with an Adirondack top. Is this worth the extra money? I have yet to play one for myself so your opinions will help get me started.

I will go with Adirondack anyday.. the $600 to me worth any penny... to me.. the Adirondack upcharge enhance your guitar much more than Brazilian with a quarter of the price.

Um.. Fossil Ivory nuts, saddle and pins will probably be all you can do to upgrade your guitar other than wood.

The Saddle will make a huge different tonally..

But I think none of the minor upgrades (except the saddle) enhance your guitar any more than a new pack of strings..

Ed - The great thing about you being in Hong Kong is that you're awake when everyone else here in the States is sleeping. Except for me... It's 2:30 in Chicago and here I am replying while everyone else is snoozing.

Good point about new strings - the easiest upgrade.

I'm going to see if I can play an Adirondack sometime very soon. I'm already sort of spoiled with the sound I get with a Sitka top, so I can't wait to see what Adirondack has to add to the sound.

Just curious though, how do you describe the Adirondack? Is it brighter or mellower or louder or more subdued, etc. than Sitka or other woods?

Adirondack is warm and responsive when you fingerpick... Project better than any other woods... With clarity, strong and powerful notes when you flat pick with the heaviest hand.. A lot of headrooms.

If you only play fingerstyle, European spruce might be a tiny better.. but I do love Adirondack for its clarity, power and projection!!

I'm all for upgrading to whatever makes you happy. However, MY ear happens to prefer the sound of Sitka over adirondack for tops. That's why I bought the straight D-1.

Frankly, EVERY damn Collings I've ever played has just been a superior instrument! I just can't see the need to change anything. And there's NO other guitar manufacturer/builder out there I can say that about.

Put another way, a STOCK Collings is every other manufacturer's CUSTOM SHOP. And then when you play it, nothing else is in the ballpark.

Well done Bill!!!

Upgrades to a guitar you already have, or one you want to order and have built? If it's a guitar you already have then different woods are not an option. The best upgrades are probably a good saddle and nut. If you have a Collings, you already have a good saddle and nut. The fancy fossilized ivory might be a little different than good bone (like Collings uses), but probably not much, and whether it's better or not would be a matter of opinion.

As far as Adirondack goes, a couple of the best sounding guitars I have ever played were adirondack, but I have also play just as many adirondack guitars that I did not think were better, or even as good as guitars with sitka. Each guitar is different. Perhaps adirondack has a better chance of sounding great, but many other factors come into play. Also, there is no guitar that sounds better than another. Only ones that sound better to you, and that's what counts. I'm sorry to say that the Holy Grail is a myth, or perhaps not, but then there is certainly a multitude of Grails.

I have never ordered a guitar because I like to play them first. As a matter of fact, I don't really think I was specifically shopping for a guitar when I bought any of the 18 guitars I have. I just happen to play guitars that blow me away when I have enough money or credit to buy them. I'm sure I could order from a great builder like Collings and get a truely wonderful guitar that I would love, but I'd rather wander the stores randomly until something catches my fancy. How much I like it determines how much in debt I will go for it.

Back in 1979 I worked at Melody Music in Englewood, Colorado. At that time this was one of the best guitar stores in Colorado. They stocked a huge inventory of what then were the high end guitars. High end Martin, Guild, Gibson, Fender, and a few smaller builders like DW Stevens. I did the guitar repairs. Anyway, back in those days customizing guitars was very popular. Electrics in particular, guitar all guitars. New saddles, nuts, electronics. Even removing the finish from the top to get more tone. I had a "FrankenTele" back then with 4 pickups and about 10 switches and knobs. These days I try to find guitars I like and then not change them much or at all. I guess I have grown to apppreciate what the original builder had in mind and I like stock guitars for the most part. I will put a bone saddle in if there is a plastic one. I might replace the nut also, but that's lower on my list. Otherwise my guitars are pretty much stock, or at least as close to stock as they were when I got them. I have a couple that had had the tuning machines replaced before I bought them and one that had the top stripped. I refinished the top of that one myself.

Anyway, the point of this long ramble is that instead of upgrading a guitar until you like it, just find one you like.

This is further proof that I just need to go play an Adirondack. I realize how subjective these differences are (nut, saddle, top-wood) but there are certain things that nearly everyone would agree are better. And since this is a Collings-specific forum we all have a similar sound in mind when using words like 'better'. But, like you, I much prefer to hear for myself. I appreciate your opinion, though. That's what I wanted.

Thanks for the insight...

[This message was edited by elambo on May 18, 2002 at 12:43 PM.]

However, MY ear happens to prefer the sound of Sitka over adirondack for tops. That's why I bought the straight D-1.


If you guys get to try a D1A and a plain D1 side by side you might be surprised. There is a difference but the Sitka D1 is a GREAT guitar.I've owned both and could be happy with either one.
Michael.

Adirondack is a great option, but it really does depend upon the instrument. I have an Adirondack top on my CJ, what a wonderful combination. My instructor has a sitka top on his CJ; we both think it sounds better (break-in not withstanding) than a CJ with adirondack that's presently hanging in a local acoustic shop. A friend has a D-1A - awesome for bluegrass (which is what he plays), but too bright as a lone dreadnought to accompany the human voice. Of course the thing is still new; it thinks its still a tree. I imagine in a few years that'll be an awesome guitar. As it is, its a bluegrass powerhouse. It kinda makes me miss my D-1. Maybe I'll get another one day...

peace,

jb

Now, that is a GREAT one liner. I will have to remember that one. Your observaton is dead on, however, about taking a guitar a few years to open up. ALthough, I have seen guitars open up in a couple of months....just depends on the player and the woods (and all wood is different).

Joining the Adirondack discussion, being a lefty, we NEVER get to try a guitar before we buy one. No store owner will ever order a lefty Collings and hang it on his wall to be sold. It may sit there forever.....so, we have to order sight unseen.

My post is really aimed at lefties. I have played both Sitka, Engleman and Adirondack tops in a Collings, all 3 on different models, an OM, OOO and OO. I liked everyone of them, and they all were absolutely fabulous in there own special way. And, there were different combinations of tone woods for the back and sides, although the OM and OO were East Indian. The OOO was a Brazilian. I'd have to say that the Brazilian / Adirondack was the most powerful of the 3.....clear, razor sharp focus, louder than hell, and gobs of sustain. The Engleman / East Inidan OO was the warmest of the 3, and it had a very sweet tone, a honey like quality. The Sitka/East Indian OM was a very punchy, "in your face, man", sound, and had the most overtones and sustain of all 3.

So, what does all this mean? It means that tonewoods do vary according to the model of the guitar, and can compliment or distract from the tone you may or may not desire. For you right handed players, I would play as many different combinations of woods that you can until you find "the one" that speaks to you. For you lefties, go hear a right handed person play different Collings' models. Also, don't be afraid to ask the dealer to string the guitar backwards, tune it down a whole step and then Capo it at the 2nd fret (that way, you won't need to worry about the bass strings slipping off the treble nut slot ---an old trick I learned). If the store manager or owner scoffs at your request, tell him if you like what you hear, you are more likley to buy it at his store (rather than his competitor), or whichever store allows you this privilege, and tell him you will pay for a new set set of strings if need be. (You right handed guys and gals don't know the pain us lefties have to go through).

This is way off topic, but as a lefty, the one thing I can count on when ordering a Collings is that I know when I get my new Collings from the store, it will sound just as good as the one I heard in the store. I am not sure I can say that about other factory made guitars, except perhaps a Goodall or a Huss and Dalton.