I recently purchased a 1998 DS2H 12 fret
beauty from those wonderful people at Cotton
Music in Nashville. When I opened the case,
I was surprisd how pristine it was. Just perfect. Not a mark anywhere.
This is my first Collings and it's a whole
new world. I've been playing a 1967 Gibson
J-50 for 30 years.
Can someone offer advise, about changing the strings on a slot-head with-out scratching up
the head stock? My son says, "worship the music, not the instrument" but he doesn't
have a Collings.

There is also a good video on youtube.

http://www.frets.com/FRETSPages/Musician/Guitar/Setup/S...ng/slotheadstr1.html

12fret,
thank you, thank you, thank you for bringing this up. I haven't changed the strings on my early 30s Style O for over a year. I was packing for a gig this past Friday and decided to string it up with a set of Thomastik Infield PB mediums I got at NAMM. Damn slotheads - drew blood on the high E. Played the gig with one new string and five old ones. I just checked the link El Jefe posted and Voila. I'm gonna go finish the job.

Frank Ford's method is a good one, but the bottom line is that you're still probably going to get a few string marks on the inside of those slots at some point. It's part of it.

But 12-fret slotheads are way, way cool ...

Enjoy,

Somewhere on the net there are illustrated instructions on how to change the strings on a slot-head guitar, you might try Googling.

I have several slot heads, and find them only slightly more difficult than solid head tuners.
1). I use a battery operated screwdriver from WalMart with an adapter that you can buy from Stew-Mac (get two, one is always MIA) for the tuning buttons.

2). When the old string is off, put the new strng through the hole and turn it 1/2 way around the post and double it under itself, so that it is naturally trapped by tightening the string. Cut the free end away and bend the remaining stump so that it can't scratch the finish. I use the extra small ChannelLock needle-nose piers, and a matching mini wire cliper; but you could probably do it all with the needlenose pliers if they have a cutting surface, mine don't.

3. Unless you need to clean and/or oil the fingerboard, I go low E to high E approximating tuning as I go. Otherwise, take the strings all off, do your thing and put them back in what ever order seems reasonable.

Remember to give a hard pull on the ball-end so that it is properly seated in betwen the bridge plate and the bridge pin.

Done. No dings, no scratches if you are as careful as youi are with a solid headstock.

Having owned a 00 Santa Cruz 12 fret and my current DS2H, I've learned that when re-stringing, make one of your first moves poking yourself in the finger and draw first blood. You're going to do it at some point each time, so you might as well get it over with right off.

In the mean time, follow Dr. Bill's advice and be as careful as you can. Otherwise, pick the fur off'n it and enjoy.

Jim
BSOB '07