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Posted
Hi Everyone,

I just changed the strings on my 2004 MF and 2002 MT-2. I use TI strings and for me they last 9 months to a year. Good thing because I find it very difficult to change strings on the MF which has the Collings tail-piece. I can't seem to keep the loop from slipping of the post while I bring the string up to tension. i feel like I need a 3rd hand. My MT-2 has the Gibson sty;e tail-piece and it takes me less than half the time. I actually prefer the Collings tail-piece but changing strings is exhausting.

Does anyone have any techniques or suggestions to make this go a little more smoothly?

Thanks


My Guitars and Mandolins
-----------------------------
MF and MT-2 Mandolins
Collings C10 Maple Custom, O1ASB, OM1AC
Santa Cruz H14, Shelley Park Elan 14, Heritage Sweet 16
 
Posts: 142 | Location: Madison Wisconsin | Registered: April 17, 2003Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
Posted Hide Post
I have only done this once, so no expert by any means. But I did watch a freind change my MF back when I got it and will tell you his little secret.

He uses a dental pick ! One of those funny shaped little hook thingies the dentist uses to inflict pain on us. Get the string fed up through the tail piece. And while you pull forward on the string use the pick to hold the loop in place where it catches the itty bitty post. Once the loop is set on the little post you can wind it up and get some real tension to it.

Most dentists discard theirs when they break a point on one end etc. You can ask if they have any rejects. You can use the one good end or sharpen the other end back to a point.

Only trick I know.


DS 3 Braz
000 1 G
MF Mando
MT 2 O
 
Posts: 783 | Location: Daytona Beach Fla. | Registered: June 08, 2004Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
Posted Hide Post
http://kingbrown.netfirms.com/accessories.html
This guy makes a "string-grabber" that I guess might help make stringing this type of tailpiece a little easier. $10 USD delivered.It's at the bottom of the webpage.
 
Posts: 25 | Registered: February 20, 2008Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
Posted Hide Post
i try to keep the string under some tension by lifting the string UP from the fingerboard with my left hand while turning the tuning knob with my right hand. just enough tension to keep the loop on the pin. as the string slowly comes up to pitch, gradually lower the string into place.
 
Posts: 439 | Location: colorado | Registered: February 02, 2007Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
Posted Hide Post
I change two strings at a time. After threading the two new strings through the tail piece and putting loops on the hooks, I lay over a small piece of blue masking tape, keeps the loops in place. You can use the same piece of tape for the whole change.


Tom
 
Posts: 100 | Location: Sheboygan Falls, WI | Registered: May 10, 2002Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
Posted Hide Post
When I had my MT I used the Tom technique with the tape. I have to admit I like ease of restringing the James tailpiece
 
Posts: 370 | Registered: February 10, 2003Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Thanks everyone. I think the tape method is worth a try. I don't have a problem getting the loop on to the pin but keeping it there until I ca put some tension on the string is where I have problems. A little tame should do the trick.


My Guitars and Mandolins
-----------------------------
MF and MT-2 Mandolins
Collings C10 Maple Custom, O1ASB, OM1AC
Santa Cruz H14, Shelley Park Elan 14, Heritage Sweet 16
 
Posts: 142 | Location: Madison Wisconsin | Registered: April 17, 2003Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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