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I've heard great things about the Collings mando's, but they are so expensive. I'm a guitar player, but I'm learning mandolin in my spare time and not only is it hard, but it's very difficult to adapt to the new tuning. Does anyone have any pointers for a guitarist learning the mando? I have an old 20's Gibson F2 mando and man does it have "the tone," but that particular model has a much shorter scale neck than the F5's and it can be kind of difficult on the fingers. I'd like to maybe get a Collings one day.
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I'm a guitar player who can "fake" mandolin. That is, most guitar players think I can play the thing, but a real mandolin player will slap me and take it away from me.
Admittedly, I've never really spent much time trying to play one, but if you can flip the scales visually in your head, a mandolin is just an upside-down guitar. It's a quick and easy trick to quickly get to knowing where chords are, and what notes will work in an impromptu solo. kdd |
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I'm another total faker myself, with a 1915 A-1 which is really far too nice for me. I learned to bluff my way around by playing lots of casual Irish sessions years ago, mostly vamping backup in a rather non-trad style but also playing the simpler tunes. Kevin has a good point about the tuning - GDAE is the reverse of EADG (no BE), so you've got all the chords right there. Neat trick.
I really blew it though by using 'guitar' fingering for a long time instead of proper fiddle/mando fingering (ie. finger 1 = fret 2, finger 2 = fret 3/4, finger 4 = fret 5, finger 5 = fret 7) – I'm sure you aren't making the same mistake. With the right fingering, lots of tunes fall right into place because they were written by fiddle players – as I realised a good deal later than I should have! I've never played a Collings mando either, and unless I find one with nobody within earshot, I may never play one... ______________________ OM1A short scale sunburst |
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The Collings mandolins are awesome. I have a MF5 that I just love.
The A and F models are very good and while the Collings mandos seem to be expensive they are in fact a pretty good bargain as compared to most other mandolins. I used to have a Gibson A4 and I understand what you mean about the shorter scale. However, you can adjust to pretty easily and the Collings aren't that much longer in scale. As you have already probably figured out the mandolin is tuned in perfect 5ths and this cause the notes to fall under your fingers pretty easily. The hard part is learning the bluegrass chop chords that similtaneously cramp and stretch your left hand. You will have a great time learning to play mandolin. This message has been edited. Last edited by: MEP, |
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Folk,
My first post here... I am a big Collings fan..... I can't say enough about how great they sound and the quality of the instruments and the absolutely stellar customer service...... Regarding the mandos, they are also really something special and an MF-5 will eat a Gibson Master model for breakfast... If you are new to the mando world, I would strongly suggest snagging a Collings MT. It's an A-model with F-holes and an Engleman top. New it's only $1875 and used they can be had for $1400-shipped with a modicum of effort. This mando is the same tuners, fingerboard, hardware, neck, dimmensions etc. as the high-end models. IT's an A-model, but bitey and loud. It's a great value and will amaze you for the price. Plus, the radiussed fingerboard is said to be easier for guitar players....... Check it out..... -Andrew |
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I bought a MF5 last week and absolutely love it. My previous mando was a mid '50s Gibson A40 and this thing is from a completely different planet!
All I need to do now is learn to play it properly... |
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Okay, I'm about ready to buy me another mandolin. I had a Collings MT2 for a while, but sold it to focus on guitar. I miss the mando more than I thought I would so I'm planning on getting me a Collings MT.
A couple questions; 1) Is there any advantage of a 1 piece back over a 2 piece back and vice versa? 2) Any comments on the black finish instead of the standard burst? |
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Allen, I can't say what the advantages or disadvantages are to having a solid back or black vs. SB top, but if you check here http://www.mandolincafe.com/cgi-bin/classifieds/classifieds.cgi from time to time, you can find some decent deals on mando's. There is one MT with black top, and a recent MT SB model that is listed for a fair price. My next Mando purchase will definately be a Collings. Right now I play a Gibson A9, but I want a Collings MF5 if I can ever scrape the funds together.
FYI - I went by Quincy's last time I was in Austin and met the owner and Qunicy. Real nice feller I must say, and he sure has a great selection of guitars. I told him you sent me. Looks like he is doing pretty good business wise anyway. |
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I'm wondering if any of you have had a chance to compare the volume of the MT-2 mandolin vs most F style mando's ? I'm hoping to get one but I don't want to be drowned out by our banjo player. I can't see any reason why a good A style { assuming it has F holes } should have any less volume than an F.
1967 Martin D-18 2005 Collings OM2HG 2007 Collings 000-3 Weber Fern Brentrup 21V Smart Mandola Davy Stewart octave mandolin |
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I did a session with a player who had a new MT. We did not have a banjo player in the room but during rehearsal and jamming, it was plenty loud. I actually had to crank up my OM1A playing to keep up with his volume. I was totally impressed. Now I want one too!!! It had a nice, crisp sound to it. His comping behind my playing made a great percussive sound as well.
My Collings family: OM1A Custom (deep body), 000-2GC, 16" Archtop, & T.N.O. (The Next One ) |
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